The Nullarbor

Campground: Moodini Bluff Rest Area
Facilities: Toilet, Picnic Tables, Bins.
Good stuff: Spacious, slightly set back from the road so it isn’t too noisy.
Not so good stuff: No real bad stuff for a rest area- great place to stop off!
Price: Free

This was another one of our big ticks: crossing the iconic Nullarbor. We had done a fair amount of research into whether we should carry extra fuel, as there are horror stories of bad head winds leading to people being pulled over for several days until they die down and also to carry extra fuel because of potentially limited supply. However,  research is one thing and experience is another. Through the wandering grey nomads we have chatted to along the way so far, many said that there are many fuel stops along the way that there shouldn’t be any dramas.

Look out for Kangaroos... Check, Wombats... Check and Prancing Camels???

We decided to fuel up as normal as the weather looked in our favour with a tail wind and the idea of an extra 20kg on the back probably would lead to higher fuel consumption anyway. Our first stop along the way was at the famous Nullarbor Roadhouse; yes it is a bit of tourist trap but it is worth wandering around with loads of Aussie and Nullarbor mementos to set your eyes on. On another note, the toilets and showers are really good and have just been renovated, $1 for a hot shower- not bad!

From the East, the Nullarbor Roadhouse is the starting point of the very long and straight road. It just goes and goes and goes… The name Nullarbor is derived from the Latin ‘Nullus’, which means No, and “Arbor” which means tree. A bit of a surprise because we both thought it was an aboriginal name. The only issue for us is that you can see trees, however they were probably technically large shrubs- shows how much we know.

The start of a very very long road!

Everyone should pull over and do the standard lookouts along the way. Some of them have eroded away due to the strength of the waves working away at the limestone cliffs. They are definitely worth it and only a short drive from the main road.

First Lookout coming from the East

We took a bit more of a detour to the Koonalda Roadhouse about 14km off the main Eyre Highway. It isn’t signposted, the road is loaded with ruts and it is easy to get lost with the network of dirt tracks, however when you get there it is well worth the drive. You first see the derelict fuel station and then your eyes scan to the 100’s of abandoned cars and around to the old homestead. It was such an atmospheric place and literally like something out of a horror movie. In the middle of nowhere, shrubs as far as the eye could see and an abandoned homestead, outbuildings, fuel station and loads of rusted abandoned cars. There was an essence of an apocalypse (think Mad Max) with it being run down but not unliveable.  If you have the time while crossing the Nullarbor we would totally recommend this place. It is rare that you ever get to see a place like this.

Covering more distance than we had anticipated, thanks to the timezone change and tailwind, we decided to cross over to WA. The Quarantine Station was a little bit more gruelling than the previous one in SA, but after a thorough check of the car with the central console, draws and glove box included we were finally on our way! That was until we were pulled over by a policeman a few hundred metres down the road in… Random Breath Test and licence check. Welcome to WA Kyle!

The joys of crossing over to a new state... It is time to cook up some veg!

Another sting was the fuel price (and too much research biting us). We had read that fuelling up in Eucla was pricey and heading to Mundrabilla was a cheaper option to top up. Well turns out that has changed… Ok by only a cent but our smug smiles soon fell off our faces when we saw the price. Hit by a $1.72 per litre we were stunned to say the least- 40c per litre increase from SA! Hopefully this isn’t giving us a taste for what is in store throughout WA.